![]() ![]() In this instance, the pen represents the needle and the paper the quilt, and you’re moving the pen. Just remember that they will need an occasional wash, just like any other item of clothing! Sweaty hands, fluff and dust and lint… keep them clean so they don’t mark your quilts.ĭon’t worry, this isn’t foundation paper piecing! This is actually the first step to free motion quilting – practicing the motifs using a pen and paper to get an understanding of how to create the shapes and to move around the space. I personally use these generic Japanese work gloves that are breathable and grippy, but you can buy specific gloves for quilting that are very popular, like Machingers. When you place your hands so that they create a triangular-ish “hoop” on the quilt top around the needle, you will find it easier to move around, pausing and readjusting your hands as needed. And secondly, it makes it hard navigate your way around the quilt top. This will cause your neck and shoulders to get real achey, real quick. You want to relax when free motion quilting, especially your shoulders, and tensely grasping onto the quilt will cause your upper body to tense up too much. Otherwise you’ll find yourself clutching onto handfuls of quilt to manoeuvre the quilt around, and this causes two main problems.įirstly, it makes you tense up. But you will find it sooo much easier with some extra grip. The rubber will be nice and grippy on the quilt!Īnd hey, you can even get started quilting without gloves. Getting something cotton (lightweight and breathable) and grippy are the best option, but you can honestly grab a pair of rubber-tipped gardening gloves from the supermarket while doing your weekly shop to get started. The second most important tool for free motion quilting that I recommend are quilting gloves. ![]() Most domestic machines are low shank, but double check your manual, or pull out a little ruler and check for yourself. A low shank measures about 3/4″ and a high shank is over 1″. This refers to the distance between the bottom of the foot and the screw used to attach it to the machine. The one thing to be aware of when buying a generic option is whether your machine is low shank or high shank. However, there are plenty of generic options out there that are probably a bit cheaper, so that’s one way you can experiment with different styles. This really is down to personal preference what style you prefer, so I would recommend starting with whatever is the standard option from your sewing machine brand. There are a few different styles available, from plastic to metal, from open-toed to closed. ![]() It’s often called a darning foot, and is designed to smoothly glide over the fabric while still keeping the fabric down when stitching in all different directions. To be able to do free motion quilting, the number one thing you need is a special foot for your sewing machine. And guess what – two of them can be found in your local supermarket. Well, I’m here to tell you that free motion quilting is not like that at all. If you already straight line your quilts, then you’re almost all of the way there! You would already have the larger Size 90/14 needles on hand, and your preferred thread, so there’s just 3 more tools you need for free motion quilting. There are times when you want to try something new with quilting and suddenly you find yourself needing a whole range of new supplies – hand sewing needles, templates, paper pieces, tools, rulers, notions, gadgets and gizmos… And sure, that’s probably half the fun, right? You get to go shopping! But if you’re like me, it can also sometimes feel like a bit of a hurdle to getting started. ![]()
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